Is it better to buy clothes made in the same country that you live in? And do country of origin labels even give us the full picture anyway? Here, we discuss whether locally made clothing is more ethical. Read on to find out before making your next purchase.
The complex supply chains hidden behind country of origin labels
Many consumers take a product’s “Made in…” label at face value—if it says Australia, it’s fair to believe the whole product has come from the land down under… right? Well, not quite. Country of origin labels rarely demonstrate a garment’s complex and interwoven supply chains that come before the final stage of production that is often listed on the label. In fact, in many places around the world, a garment can be labelled with a certain country of origin if it has been “sufficiently transformed” there, even if the majority of its components were produced elsewhere.
The regulations around country of origin labelling vary depending on the region. In the US, for instance, a garment can only be labelled as “Made in USA” if the garment and the materials it’s made from were manufactured in the United States. Meanwhile, in the UK it’s less strict, and country of origin labelling is only a legal requirement if customers are likely to be misled about the true origin in the absence of a label. And in the EU, it varies between member states.
Globalisation and consumerism have led to reduced transportation times and a heightened desire for the next trendy item of clothing ASAP. We see it, we want it, and we can get it almost instantly. When we buy online, supply chains can become even harder to trace, and we have even less of an idea of where our clothes are actually made. Do the labels tell the truth? Or do they hide a complex supply chain rife with exploitation? And does all this mean we should just stick to buying locally? Clothes can be more expensive if they’ve been made locally, but is it worth paying the extra for?
Is locally made fashion better for the environment?
In theory, it’s easier to hold brands accountable when they’re producing locally since we’d be more likely to find out if it was harming our local water supply, for instance. But it’s not quite that simple, because even if a brand is manufacturing close to home, it’s unlikely that the entire supply chain is based there. Most items of clothing have many stages of production that happen in different places—from the origins of the raw materials to the transformation of that raw material into fabric, and the cutting and sewing to turn it into a product. There are many factors we need to consider.
The journey of a piece of clothing is complex and lengthy. It’s extremely rare for raw materials to be grown, processed, sewn, and sold all in one location, and each stage of the supply chain has some form of impact on the environment.
It gets even more complicated for vibrant and colourful clothing, because all those sequins, sparkles, and dyes have to come from somewhere—and they will inevitably end up back in the environment. Be prepared to ask retailers not just where their clothes are made, but where all those extras come from, and if they will biodegrade.
Certification schemes like the Global Organic Textile Standard can be a starting point for ensuring that items of clothing have not been dyed with anything toxic. This is not just for the environment’s sake, but also our own health.
Manufacturing locally—and on a smaller scale than the mass production we see in fast fashion—often gives brands greater control over their supply chain, which could make it easier for them to produce made-to-order goods, or to halt production on items that aren’t selling very well. This could help solve the common problem of waste due to overproduction, and deadstock fabrics (fabric leftover from production that is often thrown away).
Do people benefit from local production?
Many fast fashion brands select suppliers from countries where labour costs are low and human rights and labour laws are flouted, which commonly leads to exploitation. As a result, in some major garment-producing countries, garment workers face excessive hours, forced overtime, lack of job security, sexual harassment, and discrimination. When we can’t see what’s going on and production happens in far-off places, it’s harder to hold brands accountable and ensure the wellbeing of those making our clothes (that’s why transparency is so important), so some might argue that local manufacturing can help avoid this.
But locally made does not always mean better working conditions for those involved in the final stage of production. In 2022, a study estimated that 56% of garment industry workers surveyed in Leicester, UK “had been paid below the minimum wage, 55% did not receive holiday pay and a third had no contract and did not receive a payslip.” When we look at reports in the US, the results aren’t much better. In 2021 it was revealed that thousands of workers in Southern California who make clothes for top fashion brands were earning “below minimum wage for 60-hour weeks in unsafe conditions“.
A note on women and women of colour in supply chains
Women are the literal driving force behind our clothes. A majority of garment workers around the world are women of colour. The garment industry jobs all these women hold can and should result in their economic empowerment. They deserve to have the financial independence to be able to decide whether to work, how much to work, and how to spend or save their income. Clothes made from afar have the potential to do great things by empowering these women. But we need to remain conscious of possible gender-based violence in supply chains as well, which could mean that women are facing discrimination and worse. Women also have different needs, such as childcare, since they are commonly the primary caregiver. These needs are sadly not often met in the fashion industry.
How do animals fare in locally made fashion?
Lastly, we can’t forget about the non-human animals we share the planet with, and where they fit into this.
Animal welfare in the fashion industry is a big issue in countries all around the world, and regional animal welfare legislation differs vastly, which means the answer to how animals fare in local production depends on where they are. Ultimately, animal-derived materials such as leather and fur have an enormous impact on the creatures involved, the environment, and people too—no matter where they are produced.
World Animal Protection has compiled a useful index of 50 countries and the standards they uphold (or don’t) for our furred, feathered, and scaled friends, so you can see which countries of origin to avoid. Large amounts of leather sold throughout the world come from China and India, which both fall short on animal welfare legislation, so you may want to take a pass on leather goods from these areas if they aren’t backed up by any welfare certifications.
Buying clothing from brands that value animal ethics, as well as sustainability and health, is important. And this will vary brand to brand, country to country. Whenever possible, try buying second-hand, which erases most of the impact in all three areas since you aren’t directly contributing to the garment’s production.
Is locally made better?
Choosing to buy from brands manufacturing locally can be a good choice, especially if there’s evidence to suggest they’re implementing best practices to minimise their impact.
Like anything, there are pros and cons to buying locally made produce. It means more accountability and traceability, and can also help support local businesses, for instance, instead of lining the pockets of fast fashion giants. However, it’s important to remember that the fashion supply chain is extremely complex, and that no item can truly be 100% local. Regardless of whether we buy a piece of clothing online or on our local high street, it has likely already travelled around the world in some way, and had an impact on the environment up to that point in its journey.
Ultimately, it’s about how the brands you choose to support are managing their impacts across the supply chain, wherever in the world that is.
Good On You is the ideal starting point for your research. Our ratings methodology is the fashion industry’s most robust and comprehensive, so if you ever come across a local brand and you’re not sure how it’s impacting people, the planet, and animals, use our app or web directory to check its rating and decide whether it’s worth supporting. And if it hasn’t yet been rated, you can put in a request in the app, too.
There is no perfect solution. However, avoiding fast fashion, buying fewer clothes, and choosing second-hand are guaranteed to help shape a better future for people, the planet, and animals.
